Showing posts with label Okeechobee Waterway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Okeechobee Waterway. Show all posts

If It's A Boat, It Will Break

If there is one thing that I am certain of after a half century of boating, it's that on a boat, something will break. A pesky oil leak in the front of the engine began as a minor thing and an annoyance. By the time we were halfway across the Okeechobee Waterway, the leak increased and since it was the front main oil seal, the belt pulley was starting to fling the oil as it spun. That meant oil was not only dripping under the engine, but slinging up on the engine room walls and everything else around it. Not a pleasant thought and definitely time to make repairs. Replacing the main seal is not a major repair, but it requires equipment most boaters don't carry on board. We knew a good mechanic from our time living in Port of the Islands near Marco Island, so a call to him arranged the repair when we arrived in Fort Myers. The parts were ordered from American Diesel and would arrive at about the same time as Beach House. All seemed to be set for a short stop and a quick fix. Ah, but this is a boat after all.


No sooner were we docked at Fort Myers Yacht Basin than a familiar face appeared on the dock to greet us. One of our neighbors from a short stop we made at Lamb's Marina near Elizabeth City, NC had moved their boat to Fort Myers and was a few slips down the dock. It's always good to see familiar faces when we arrive at a new place. A check at the marina office confirmed that the parts had arrived. We ordered a new front engine oil seal and the replacement gasket for the timing gear cover. The mechanic was lined up to arrive the next day to look over the situation and if all looked good, to make the repairs. Things were going according to plan and that worried us, a lot. But this is a boat after all. The other reason for this marina stop was to take care of some appointments that were made months ago and we needed to rent a car to get from Fort Myers to Gainesville, FL. Enterprise Car Rental in Fort Myers proved to be a little difficult at first, but we finally worked things out and hit the road.

The replacement of the front engine seal on a Ford Lehman 120 requires the removal of the wheel that contains the pulley for the engine belts. This is also known as the balancer. It has a tapered nut holding it on at about 200-foot pounds and requires an impact wrench to get it off. Once off, the plate on the front of the engine that covers the timing gear is removed and the front seal is pressed into that cover. While we were on the road, a call to the mechanic revealed that the repair was not going to be as simple as we anticipated. The timing gear cover had a crack in it and it was probably the crack that was leaking and not the seal. The mechanic planned to take it to a machine shop to see if the metal could be welded, but the location made that repair iffy. We might need to find a replacement cover. These engines are over 30 years old and sometimes finding parts can be problematic. A call to American Diesel resulted in some bad news. They did not have a replacement and had not had one in a long time. This is when we started to worry. There is another provider of parts for the Ford Lehman, and that is a company called Bomac in Georgia. What a relief it was to call them and find out that they had a replacement in stock and could ship it out immediately. During the course of all of this, the new seal was damaged and another was ordered with the cover. It would arrive overnight.

The parts went in the next evening and everything went back together without complication. Running the engine at the dock did not indicate any oil leaking. By now we had been at the marina a few days longer than anticipated and the crew was anxious to get underway again. The next morning the engine was run at the dock for a half hour just to make sure everything was okay, and it seemed so. But this is a boat after all. Dock lines were let go and with a little effort and help from the marina staff ̶we had a strong cross wind ̶Beach House eased out of the slip and continued out onto the Caloosahatchee River with plans to connect up to the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway. But first, we wanted to stop and investigate an anchorage a few miles away in Bimini Basin. Once the anchor was down, a check of the engine room showed the leak was not only back, but worse than before. Remember what I said earlier about boats. A call to our mechanic resulted in him offering to have us bring the boat to a dock behind his home to try and determine what happened. Since he lived nearby, we decided to spend the rest of the day and that night in Bimini Basin. We dinghied ashore to do some exploration and as we sat on a park bench near the anchorage, we spotted our friends cruising around Beach House in their small deckboat. We had just spent the evening before with them at their home for a lovely dinner.

It was a pleasant afternoon and evening, but the next day the problem with the leak had to be resolved once and for all. A short motor back up the river to the mechanic's dock didn't take much more than an hour, but when oil is leaking all over the front of the engine and being flung around, it can be a long hour. It wasn't enough oil loss to be of concern, just enough to make a mess. We tied to the dock behind the mechanic's home, but he was across the state working on another job and would not return until the evening. There was nothing to do but wait. When the parts were removed once again, it appeared as though the seal had failed. The only thing we could conclude was that it was a defective seal. Rather than ordering another from Bomac, the decision was made to order a new seal, plus a spare, from American Diesel. Any parts that came from them was always of high quality. Once again, the parts would arrive overnight and for the third time, a new seal would be installed.

Great care was taken to be sure the newest seal was installed properly. In order to do that, the seal must be properly pressed into the timing gear cover, taking care to make sure it's oriented properly. The cover is put in place with the many bolts that hold it on only loosely installed. Then the balancer is put in place until it is just barely seated in the seal. This lines the seal up and centers it on the balancer. The bolts for the cover are snugged up until all are snug, and then they are tightened as much as needed. And of course a new gasket for the cover was installed. Once the cover and seal are in place and everything is tight, the balancer is tightened down using an impact wrench. This time we ran the engine at the dock for over an hour at cruising RPMs. Once again, everything looked fine. But we have been fooled before. The following morning we left the dock and continued on our journey. Our next anchorage was only a couple of hours away just in case there was still a problem, but far enough to give the seal a workout. Hallelujah. After repeated checks of the engine room about every 30 minutes and another thorough check once the anchor was down, all looked fine. We could begin to breath a little easier, but it would still take a few days to feel confident things were finally resolved.

As the days progressed and no oil leaks were detected, confidence in the engine returned to normal. There are still hundreds of miles to cover as we make our way along the Gulf Coast researching our next edition of TheGreat Book Of Anchorages, The Gulf Coast, including the Okeechobee Waterway. Most days the boat will put in a full day of running, but the distance transited along the coast might only be about 10-15 miles. There are so many anchorages to research and explore that we zig and zag across the GIWW. There will be other days where 50 or 60 miles of the open Gulf of Mexico will be ahead of us as we cross the Big Bend region of Florida. Traveling alone on a boat with a single engine keeps us aware of the need to have everything in good working order. A breakdown miles out in the Gulf and a long distance from any help can be more than an inconvenience. Weather this time of year along the Florida coast also plays an important part in all of our decision making. It's already the rainy season and afternoon thunderstorms are becoming a fact of life. Some of these storms can be sudden and very violent. We need a boat and equipment we can count on, and we believe Beach House will not let us down. Let the adventure continue. Don't forget to visit us on Facebook to see lots more photos and the latest news.

Franklin Lock And Dam Campground And Marina

We recently visited the St. Lucie Park and had written about what a pleasant and unexpected gem it was. Imagine, then, our surprise at what we found at the WP Franklin Lock and Dam Park. It is the westernmost lock in the Okeechobee Waterway out of the 5 locks in the OWW. Initially we had thought we might go ahead through the lock and continue on to LaBelle. However, as we approached the lock, the wind began to gust and we decided it was time to call it a day. I had glanced over and realized that the docks were on the east side of the lock and not the west as I had originally thought. Also, they are tucked up in a protected basin and not right next to the river as the docks are at St. Lucie. We spun the boat around and headed for the docks.



A very nice gentleman, Walt Vliet, who was out for a few weeks cruise with his wife June, came to our aid as we docked with the wind blowing us up on the finger pier. No matter how many years of experience one has, it is still difficult to dock with a single engine and a good, stiff breeze on the beam. Once secure, we had the opportunity to visit with Walt and June. Both are about to turn 80 soon and have been cruising for years. They live in Hobe Sound and often travel back and forth across the Okeechobee on either their small sailboat or their Marine Trader trawler. They were a pleasure to meet.



But the real story is the park. It is truly a beautiful little place. The RV park and marina, situated on its own little island, is located on the northeast side of the river and lock. Slow speed buoys are located at the entrance to the marina basin. There are 8 slips here as there are at St. Lucie, with 4 being first-come, first-served and the other 4 able to be reserved. Very little wake makes it into the basin. Trees and a decent size picnic pavilion are very near the docks, and a short walk west past a number of RV sites, takes you to very clean heads and showers. Recycling bins are available just next to the trash.




In the middle of the island is the ranger’s office where you pay your dockage. (Again, the same as St. Lucie - $24 per dock including water and electric, or $12 if you have your Golden Age pass for those 62+.) Just next to the office the ranger’s trailer and little fenced in yard that houses her “babies,” three small dogs. From there, turn and walk due south out to the lock and fishing pier, or turn north to walk over the short causeway to get some exercise or a different view of the island. The other, or west, end of the island has many more RV sites and a larger head and shower facility which also houses a washer and dryer. You can walk beyond that building and find another large covered pavilion at the southern end as well as a bench with a great view to the west.



If the docks are full, no problem. Figure out which direction you need wind protection from. There is plenty of room to anchor in the east basin beyond the docks, then dinghy in to the boat ramp near the heads and showers. Or anchor in the basin on the west side of the locks tucked up near the causeway that leads over to the island for great easterly and southerly protection. On this side, dinghy into the beach near the large trees just behind the building that houses the heads. The ranger is happy to have you come ashore.



You cannot walk across the lock to the other side like you can at St. Lucie Park, so drop your dinghy in the water and visit the beach on the other side as well as the visitor center. The only downside we can see is there are no provisions nearby, so come well-stocked and enjoy this little piece of heaven.

The Okeechobee Waterway Revisited

It's been three years since our last cruise on the Okeechobee Waterway and this time we planned to do it a little differently. On our last crossing of the Lake, we took the direct route across or what is also known as Route 1. This time we planned to take Route 2, or the rim route as we traveled east to west. This trip was also work, since it was the beginning of our research for our fourth book in The Great Book Of Anchorage series and will cover the Okeechobee Waterway and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable, FL to Mobile, AL. Most folks avoid the rim route because of the reputation for shallow water, but we know a little secret that will allow even deeper draft boats to use the rim route in all but extreme low water levels. Prior to any Lake crossing there are three things a boaters wants to know before starting at either the east or west end of the OWW. There is one place to find two pieces of the info you need and that is on the Corps of Engineers website - the lake level and lock restrictions. The third is weather information - the National Weather Service website for Lake Okeechobee can be found here.

Lake Okeechobee is a very large and shallow lake. A strong to moderate wind can develop a nasty chop and make crossing a very uncomfortable situation. The current lake levels are important for a boater to have to safely cross the Lake and that information can be found by clicking the link here. The page is updated daily, gives the overall Lake level and the lowest depths for the Route 1 or Route 2 crossing. The depths given are not the depths for the entire crossing but the shallowest depths anywhere along the route. It's important to know where those lower depths might be found to avoid running aground. There will be much more water on 98% of the trip than the lowest levels reported. The second thing a boater will want to know is if there are any delays or changes in the schedules of the five locks that have to be transited along the OWW. That information can be found by clicking the link here. Then the trip can begin and it's a trip we highly recommend. There is one other piece of information that is important to sailors. There is a height restriction that will keep sailboats with masts higher than 49 feet from using the waterway. Those boats with taller masts will have to go down the ICW and around through the Keys to get to the opposite coast.


The shallow areas can be found in two locations. If crossing directly across the lake, shallow sections are in the channel as you approach Clewiston. There is no way around this spot, so close attention to staying in the channel and your draft in comparison to lake levels is important. But the rim route offers an opportunity to cheat a little and avoid not only the shallow area crossing the lake, but the shallow area along the rim route. This might seem odd since the reported depths for the rim route are always substantially lower than route 1. But there is only a very short section of the rim route where this shallow water can be found and it is easy to bypass. Immediately after existing the Port Mayaca Lock, the marked channel for the rim route turns south. There the depths can be as little as 4 to 5 feet. Instead of turning into the channel, take a course straight out into the lake until the depth finder reads 9 to 10 feet. Turn south and head toward R "60" at Statute Mile 50 near Pahokee and depths will be at least 9 feet all the way. This is depends on the overall lake levels. If levels are normal, these are the average depths. Re-enter the rim route channel and except for a small section with 8 to 9 feet, depths from 12 to 20 feet can be found almost the entire way.


The rim route is much more interesting and offers the opportunity to find some excellent anchorages along the way. At Torry Island, near Statute Mile 61, there is a swing bridge that requires the bridge tender to walk out on the bridge and use a bar to turn the mechanism by hand which allows the bridge to be opened. Shortly past the bridge we found a fantastic anchorage in a kidney bean shaped basin known as South Bay with all-around protection. We shared the anchorage with a few fisherman that went home for the evening and several large gators that hung around all night. From there it was a short distance to Moore Haven and the first lock on the west side of the lake. In the small town of Moore Haven, there is an anchorage just before the lock in the old channel or a very inexpensive town marina on the canal right after the lock. From this point on westward, you are in the Caloosahatchee waterway system. After another 20 miles, the Ortona Lock is the next to be negotiated. Each of the locks are easy to transit. There are signs to announce the arrival point. From there a call to the Locktender on the VHF radio is required and you will get locking instructions. Once a green light appears at the lock entrance, you enter the lock and lines are dropped down to secure the bow and stern of the boat. The water is lowered or raised, depending on which direction you're going, and once the appropriate level is reached, the gates are opened and the boat is free to exit.


About 8 miles west of Ortona is the town of La Belle. The town has constructed docks adjoining the canal and they are free to boaters for a maximum of three days. There is power and water on the docks, also free, but the boat needs to be tied up so that you will be able to get off either on the bow or the stern. There are no finger piers, except two small ones with water depths of only a foot or two and no power or water. In the downtown area there is a restaurant, coffee house, playhouse, pizza shop and groceries, and other restaurants are only a short walk. The docks are first come, first served and during the busy season, can be full. At the time we were there, they were having problems with the power and it was not available at all of the slips. Someone from the city did come down to work on them and told us this has been an ongoing issue.


Beyond La Belle, the Caloosahatchee canal and river winds through residential and farm land. It's not unusual to see cows and horses standing along the banks watching your boat go by. At Statute Mile 122, we encountered the final lock westbound, WP Franklin Lock. Approaching the lock from the east, a basin on the north side leads to the docks at the marina and campground. Just as the marina at St. Lucie Lock, Franklin is part of the National Parks and offers the same $24.00 per night or $12.00 with a senior pass. This includes electric and power and is good for a maximum of two weeks. This would be our next and final stop on the Okeechobee Waterway before reaching Ft. Myers. A nagging oil leak on the front of the engine was getting progressively worse so a stop for repairs would be needed. We had already contacted a mechanic in the area and ordered the needed parts from American Diesel. The parts would arrive at the downtown marina about the same time that we would arrive. For now we planned to just enjoy the park at Franklin Lock.

St Lucie Lock and Dam Marina and Campground




The St. Lucie Lock and Dam is located a little more than 15 miles upriver from the “crossroads” at the St. Lucie Inlet, the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and the St. Lucie River. Approximately 10,000 vessels transit this lock every year and the majority of them are recreational vessels. The Locks are operated from 7 AM to 7 PM, seven days a week. It takes about 20 minutes on average for boats to lock through completely. Signs indicate the arrival point on both sides and the Lockmaster is contacted on VHF Channel 13. He will give instructions to wait for the green light before entering and the Captain can choose the side of the lock on which to tie. Lines are dropped from the lock walls to secure the boat at the bow and stern as the water levels are raised or lowered. The Lockmaster announces when it’s safe to proceed after the lock gates are opened.



Ride along as we transit the St. Lucie Lock.



Immediately after exiting the Lock heading westbound, boaters will see a series of finger piers on their port side with space for eight boats. The finger piers are short, but with some creative tie ups, boats up to 40 feet have used the facilities. The slips are also narrow, making it difficult for two boats with wide beams to tie up in the slip. But if you find the space acceptable, this can be an excellent stopover along the Okeechobee Waterway and an excellent value for transient dockage. Daily fees are $24.00, a flat fee, and include power and water. If you happen to be 62 or over, you are eligible for a Golden Age Passport, allowing you half price entry to any national park, including the St. Lucie Lock and Dam Park. It’s hard to beat $12 per night for dockage that includes power and water! The signs near the docks say that there is a 14 day maximum, but the park has allowed boaters to stay a month or more. Technically there are four slips that can be reserved in advance and four slips on a first-come, first-served basis. The Park Rangers don’t seem to enforce this and at the time we were there, everyone had just arrived and paid the fees with no problem. Some boaters from Stuart make this an annual trek to get away from the hustle and bustle of the town for a while.


The Park is located quite a distance from any kind of shopping or restaurants so without transportation, there is not much to do except rest and relax and maybe get caught up on a few boat projects. As luck would have it, a couple of the boaters there had vehicles and offered rides to anyone that needed one. The campers in the RVs and travel trailers were also a friendly bunch and could be a source for a ride into the shopping centers if needed.




The Park has clean restrooms for the use by the campers and the marina. Each restroom also has a shower. These are cleaned daily by the Park employees and we found everyone very friendly and helpful. A large pavilion with picnic tables, a fire pit and charcoal grills made for an excellent evening get together spot for the boaters and some of the campers. Every afternoon and evening several of us gathered to share drinks, snacks and swap stories. It’s surprising how much the boaters and the campers have in common. We enjoyed the comradery and solitude so much that we decided to stay for a week and take care of some errands. Enterprise Rent-A-Car will pick up and drop off at the Park if a car is needed.


There are several smaller pavilions around the Park, all with charcoal grills and picnic tables. Walking is our exercise of choice and the Park offers a number of walking trails. There is a walkway across the entire lock and spillway to the other side of the river, where more pavilions and walking trails are available. The view from the lock is pretty incredible - just be sure to be off the gates when they open and close for passing boats. All kinds of wildlife can be found around every corner. Hawks, eagles and osprey soar overhead and the gators lounge in the sun along the banks of the river. You might even find a few snakes along the trail, so be ready for just about anything. A good insect repellent comes in handy for those times when the wind drops off and the little pests come out to feed. At the opposite end of the lock on the same side as the campground is a small visitor center. There are exhibits on the wildlife and history of the lock, and videos with interesting information. The Ranger at the center can answer any questions and they post the Lake levels daily from the Corps of Engineers website. We thoroughly enjoyed our time there and looked forward to getting to the park at the W.P. Franklin Lock on the other side of the Lake and farther across the Okeechobee Waterway. The Park there offers the same services. But that’s a story for another time.